If the stones could have danced, Khajuraho would
have made the whole world dance on its steps and if they could sing, their melodies would have surpassed any music ever known to mankind. Sounds
unbelievable, but to believe this incredible fact, one must visit Khajuraho at least once in
their lifetime. Khajuraho was the 1st site in Madhya Pradesh to be accorded UNESCO heritage status in 1986.
Majestic Temples with precision carved statues
displaying colours from every aspect of life and stories of Gods, decorate every inch of
space at the temples. Khajuraho Temples exemplify the Nagara (नागर) style of temple
architecture. Each temple consists of a passage to main hall (ante-chamber), covered
passage, main hall including (mandap) a sacred space for worship (sanctum), and
additional halls (ardha mandapa) surrounded by an ambulatory passage
(Pradakshina-path) with spacious windows and intricate carvings.
Temples in Khajuraho have
been categorized into Western Group and Eastern Group of temples. Western Group
of temples are confined within a huge premises while Eastern Group of temples
are spread around Khajuraho. Western Group of temples are the first ones to be
explored by anyone coming in Khajuraho.
Let’s start our
exploration of Western group of temples, starting from first temple you will come
across upon entering the premises –
1st temple on the left-hand side is Lakshmi
temple. Dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, goddess of wealth, this is a small
temple and unless you pay attention, you may miss it. Temple houses this
beautiful statue of smiling Goddess.
Next
to Lakshmi Temple is Varah Temple (वराह mandir) depicting 3rd avatar of Lord Vishnu
as Boar, the 2nd temple in the premises. Detailing of details,
featuring intricately carved miniature figures of Gods and Goddesses on a
monolithic Varah body measuring 2.6 m. x 1.7 m is legendary craftsmanship.
Temple was built by King Anaji Chauhan in 12th century.
Varah temple is in a corner and opposite to much
acclaimed Lakshman temple. So, like Lakshmi Temple this carving gem often goes unnoticed by the visitors as they directly head to Lakshman Temple, the 3rd temple in
series.
Dedicated to Vaikunth Vishnu, Lakshman temple
is noted for 3-headed form of Lord Vishnu. Central head is of human and other
two heads are of Lion (Narsingh Avtar) and Boar (Varah Avtar). This statue is
truly unique and one-of-a-kind. Built in the year 930-950 AD by Chandela
King Yasovarman, the temple architecture is a literature in Symmetry, Geometry,
and Engineering. Read more...
Behind the Laxman Temple
is the renowned Kandariya Mahadev Temple, an epitome of exceptional Stonecraft and architectural brilliance. Kandara (कन्दरा) means Cavern or Cave. So, Kandariya means God of the Caves,
that is Lord Shiva. Word Majestic sounds too Small here.
Constructed during 1017 – 1029 CE, resembling 5 peaks of Mt.
Kailash. You will be in a different world here. The
Kandariya Mahadev Temple has been an
inspiration to temples subsequently built across the World.
Dedicated to Sun God, Chitragupt Temple, shares the
same premises as Kandariya Mahadev Temple. Till this point we have explored 4th
and 5th temple in the premises. Though a smaller in size, the temple has
exquisite carvings on the outer walls. The temple has around 900 sculptures carved on the walls and rests on granite foundation.
Opposite to Chitragupt temple and separated by huge
lawns is the 6th temple of the premises Vishwanath Temple, which
means Lord of the Universe. Dedicated to God Shiv, the temple was built by
Chandela King Dhanga during the year 1059. It originally housed two
Shivlings—one made of Emerald and the other carved of Stone. The Emerald
Shivling went missing after death of king Dhanga. Vishwanath temple is
considered in same league as Lakshman Temple and Kandariya Mahadev Temple. Check out the vast expanse of Vishwanath temple which looks like a castle in itself, along with intricately carved outer walls.
Opposite
to Vishwanath temple, in the same premises is the Nandi Temple, the 7th temple and this is
probably only temple where a temple dedicated to Nandi is still intact. Nandi
sits peacefully in front of his master, God Shiv.
Next to Vishwanath temple
premises is Parvati Temple, the 8th temple in the list. Name is Parvati temple; however the sanctum houses a statue of Goddess Lakshmi. The structure was completely lost over the time and has been heavily restored. Temple gate is the noteworthy for intricate carvings depicting scenes of
intimacy.
Next
to Parvati temple is the Pratapeshwar Temple, 9th and the last temple inside
the premises. Constructed around the year 1850, this is the recent addition to
the lot and is vastly different from others. Perhaps the level of craftsmanship
had ceased to exist by the time. See the difference with Lakshman temple in the background -
Felt like I was in a different world, the moment I
stepped here in the Western Group of Temples. Though regular worship is not carried out in most of the Western Group of Temples, but the temples are sacred spaces. So, Shoes and Slippers have to be removed outside to enter the sanctum of all of the temples. Will suggest having comfortable slippers to walk around in the premises and to capture great pictures, keep a quality point-and-shoot camera with good zoom to capture the intricate details of the carvings, as you will find each carving here is more impressive than the last one.
Khajuraho temples are also noted for life pleasure carvings
on outer walls. Though the extent of such carvings is hardly 5% of total
carvings but that is enough to arouse the curiosity about Khajuraho temples. Along
with spirituality temples communicate message to the society that like other
important things in a person’s life, sexual desires are also an important part
of life, and fulfilling sexual desires is not a sin. Check out some of the
carvings, in which woman are giving helping hand and in one feeling shy of the act –
Finally, just outside the premises is the
Matangeshwar Temple - is the only ancient temple in Western group where daily
worship of Shivling is carried out. 9 ft. Shivling is one of the largest
Shivling in India and is also called as "Living Shivling" as the Shivling is growing ever year. temple is always full of devotees and environment created by holy chants is just ecstatic. Built by Chandela king Chandra Dev in 10th century, this is one of the oldest temples in Khajuraho. Know more, how a magical stone gifted to eldest Pandav Yudhishthir by God Shiv took the form of Shivling...
That completed our exploration of Western Group of temples premises. Felt like I was in a different world, the moment I stepped here in the premises. Got to know while walking around from the temple priests, locales and guides that originally there were 85 temples in Khajuraho, but now only 22 exist.
The rich history of Khajuraho has been portrayed beautifully by poet Chandbardai in Prithviraj Raso -
Hemvati, daughter of the chief priest of Kashi, was renowned for her unparalleled beauty. One summer night, as she was bathing in a pond filled with lotus flowers, Chandra Dev (Moon God) got captivated with her beauty. Chandradev descended to Earth in human form and whisked Hemvati away to nearby forest, unaware of the fact that she was a widow. In flash of moment Hemvati also fall in love with Chandradev.
Realising his mistake, Chandradev sought to make amends and blessed Hemvati to bear a brave son. He instructed her to raise the child in Khajurpura, where he would grow up to be a great king and will construct temples surrounded by gardens and lakes. Chandra Dev assured Hemvati that her son would organize a grand yagya upon becoming king, absolving her of any wrongdoing.
Following Chandra's guidance, Hemvati left her home and gave birth to a son in a small village and named him Chandravarman. He inherited his father's brilliance, bravery, and strength. It is believed that by the age of 16, he used to slay lions and tigers barehanded. Recognizing her son's extraordinary valour, Hemvati worshipped Chandradev, who gifted Chandravarman the Philosopher's Stone and bestowed upon him the kingship of Khajuraho. With the stone, Chandravarman could turn iron into gold.
Chandravarman achieved victories in numerous wars and honouring his mother's wishes, built 85 unique temples in Khajuraho, each adorned with ponds and gardens, and organized a "Yagya" that cleansed Hemvati of her sins. Check the temples set against the backdrop of Gardens -
Now imagine the city at its peak with 85 majestic temples surrounded by lush gardens. Chandravarman and his successors continued to build temples and founded the Chandela dynasty that ruled Bundelkhand from 10th to 12th century. Chandravarman proudly identified himself as Chandravanshi, a lineage of Chandradev (Moon God). These illustrious temples of Khajuraho, known for their architectural splendour, were constructed between the years from 900 to 1150 under the patronage of the Chandela kings and remained a vibrant centre of worship until late 12th century. However, the fairytale ended here, and fate took a significant turn in 13th century when the Delhi Sultanate, led by Sultan Qutb-ud-din Aibak, defeated the Chandela kingdom. These invaders tried to demolish the temples but were unable to demolish, due to unique interlocking construction, so they defaced the idols with an aim to deter future worship. Thereafter Khajuraho went into oblivion and got surrounded by forests. This disappearance probably shielded the Khajuraho temples from the desecration typically inflicted upon Hindu monuments by Mughal invaders. In 1838, a British army captain somehow reached this place and complex of temples was rediscovered.
Depending on your interest, keep at least 4-5 hours to reasonably explore
Western Group of temples, otherwise for only clicking pictures one-hour is
enough. People spend months here to study the temples and carvings. After exploring and clicking numerous pictures, indulging in shopping and
savouring the culinary delights is the natural next step. Adjacent to the
Western Group of Temples, there's a bustling market offering Khajuraho's unique
Bamboo Silk garments and a wide array of artifacts. Walk a few steps to Chandel
Market for getting even more variety and collection.
Next in the itinerary comes the Eastern Group of temples which are spread out in the outskirts of city, I will suggest hiring a local auto. There are also some amazing spots around Khajuraho to keep you occupied for 3-4 days, likewise -
1) Raneh Falls & Ken Gharial Sanctuary - 5km. and 200 ft. deep the Great Indian Canyon. Check out yourself
2) Pandav Falls and Caves - Ancient Caves where Pandavas stayed during exile time, beneath a Waterfall created by Arjun and alongside is a pond making fantasyland settings. See it yourself
3) Panna National Park
4) Teeth Mountain - Mountain Ranges shaped like human teeth. Biking to the spot and thereafter trekking to the top for enjoying panoramic views of the countryside.
Keep a good camera, an insulated water bottle as summers get quite hot in Khajuraho and keep exploring Folks...
